Central Dish of Old New Year's Eve ('Vasileev evening'): semiotics and evolution of 'rich kutia'
In the structure of the festive meal of Vasileev evening (the eve of Old New Year, January 13), a ritual dish occupies a central place, known by various names: 'rich' or 'generous' kutia, 'Vasilev porridge', 'kolivo'. This is not just a culinary dish, but a complex semantic and ritual object, a concentrate of the festival's meanings, a link between the agrarian past and modern practices. Its study allows us to trace the evolution of the festival from a magical ritual to a cultural tradition.
1. Etymology and composition: ritual minimalism and symbolic abundance.
The word 'kutia' (Greek κουκκί – 'bean', through Old Slavonic kuty) indicates the ancient foundation – boiled grains. Initially, this could have been just wheat, barley, or emmer, sweetened with honey. In Vasileev evening, kutia gained the status of 'rich' or 'generous' due to the addition of fast (non-fasting) components, symbolizing the end of the Christmas fast and the arrival of abundance:
Grain (wheat, less often barley, rice): A symbol of resurrection, the eternal cycle of life and fertility. Germinated grain – a metaphor for the rebirth of the sun after the winter solstice. In the context of New Year – a wish for 'growth' of blessings in the coming year.
Poppy seeds, nuts (usually walnuts): Symbols of wealth, multitude, and fertility. Poppy seeds also associated with abundance ('falls like poppy seeds'). Their crushed form enhanced the symbolism of 'multiplication'.
Honey or kvass (zvar, compote from dried fruits): A symbol of sweetness, joy, grace, and 'harmonious' life. Honey as a natural preservative – also a symbol of eternity and immortality.
Fast additions ('zabelka'): Butter, cream, milk, less often – cheese or curd. A sign of prosperity and the end of the fast. In some regions, especially in Ukraine and Belarus, even finely chopped lard ('spike') was added as an apogee of 'wealth' and a connection ...
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