G. P. Vizgalov 1, S. G. Parkhimovich 1, T. N. Glushkova 2, E. V. Kireeva 2, A.V. Sutula 2
1 NGO "Northern Archeology"
a / z 398, Nefteyugansk-5, Russia
E-mail: chistory@mail.ru
2 Surgut State Pedagogical University
50 let VLKSM str., 10/2, Surgut, 628417, Russia
E-mail: surgpi@surguttel.ru
In Western Siberia, the most representative collections of 17th-century fabric samples are found at sites in the Tomsk-Narym Ob region (Glushkova, 2002) and the Omsk Irtysh region, excavated by V. B. Melnikov, S. F. Tataurov, S. N. Tikhonov, and others (Glushkova, 1995; Bogomolov, 1996). New textile materials were obtained during the excavations of Mangazeya. The archaeological site of the late XVI-XVII centuries was first investigated in 1968-1970 by an expedition led by M. I. Belov, O. V. Ovsyannikov, and V. F. Starkov. However, textiles were not specifically considered in the published publication [Belov, Ovsyannikov, and Starkov, 1980, 1981].
In 2001-2003, excavations of Mangazeya in the first third of the 17th century were continued by the Research and Production Association "Northern Archeology" under the leadership of G. P. Vizgalov and S. G. Parkhimovich. The uncovered area of the monument was 259 m2. A huge amount of archaeological material was discovered, including organic remains preserved due to permafrost (Vizgalov, 2004; Parkhimovich, 2004). Among the unique finds, without a doubt, we can distinguish fabrics of the XVII century.
Textile materials from the excavations of the NGO "Northern Archeology" were studied in the Laboratory of Life Support systems for the Peoples of the North of the Surgut Pedagogical Institute in 2004/05 academic year.Some of them are fragments with losses that make it difficult to find out the technological characteristics of the fabric, for example, samples where the threads are severely worn, torn, deformed with a shift in the structure of the woven fabric. However, the number of samples suitable for analysis is sufficient to make a qualitative technological characteristic of the entire collection.
The required number of sample fragments was selected. This turned out to be possible, because the material is serial. 87 samples of textiles of plain weave, 26 - twill, 38 fragments of hand-made belts and ribbons, fabric patches, 6 whole mittens and fragments of knitted textiles (mittens, insoles) were considered.
The entire complex of textile materials was subjected to special materials science and structural analysis. Using organoleptic methods, raw materials were determined and yarns were described, and their parameters were specified during microscopic examination. The main characteristics of threads are fineness and twist (direction, in some cases - the amount of twist). The distribution of fibers in threads is equally important, but it has not been studied, because this study requires considerable time and is planned in the future. Dye testing was also not carried out due to the lack of appropriate specialists in the laboratory.
Structural analysis of textiles involves fixing the following parameters: the density of warp and weft threads, the method of interweaving threads in the fabric (plain, twill, etc.), the ratio of twisting threads in the warp and weft. These characteristics, as well as the texture parameters of the canvas (open or closed surface), made it possible to attribute the studied material (see the table).
page 117
Mangazei fabrics (XVII - XVIII centuries)*
Sample number
Interweaving
Base
Ducks
Density (number of threads per 1 cm)
Notes
Tonina, mm
Twist
Tonina, mm
Twist
based on
by duck
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
MG-03/2
Plain linen
0,7
S
0,8
S
14
11
Thick fabric of good quality, dark brown color. On one side there is a dense flooring. Broadcloth (?). Flannel (?)
MG-03/3
"
0,5 - 0,7
Z
0,7
S
16
14
The fabric is red-brown in color. The floor covering was worn out on both sides and left in the seams
MG-03/6
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,6 - 0,7
S
10
10
The fabric is red-brown in color. Thread tension is uniform
MG-03/7
"
0,7
S
0,8
S
14
11
Dense, good quality fabric of dark brown color, with very smooth threads. On one side there is a dense flooring
MG-03/11
Twill 2/1
0,9 - 1
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
10
8
Light brown-brown fabric with dark spots
MG-03/14
Plain linen
4
S
3
Z
3 - 4
3
The thick cloth of the belt is dark brown in color. The texture is ribbed. Along the edges are dark stripes of two warp threads
MG-03/15
"
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5
Z
5
6
Rare fabric
MG-03/16
"
0,8
S
0,9 - 1
S
14
8
The fabric is blue-black in color. On one side of the deck. Flannel (?)
MG-03/18
"
2 - 3
S
2
S
4
4 - 5
Thick dense fabric of a belt of dark brown color, with a flooring. Cloth (?), there are holes on the canvas (mechanical impact or traces of bleach (?))
MG-03/19
"
2 - 3
S
2
Z
7
5
Thick dense fabric of the belt. There are no edges. In some places there is flooring
MG-03 / 19A
"
0,5
Z
0,5 - 0,6
S
14
16
The fabric is red-brown in color. Flooring on both sides. Broadcloth
МГ-03/22
Twill 2/1
1
Z
1 - 1,2
Z
8
7
Thick loose fabric of brown-brown color, with errors in the fabric structure
MG-03/24
Plain linen
1
Z
0,5 - 1
S
8
8 - 9
Thin, but voluminous because of the flooring, dense canvas belt of light brown color. Well preserved. Probably factory-made fabric
МГ-03/25
"
0,8
S
0,8
S
10
10
The fabric is blue-black in color. In some places there is flooring. Broadcloth
МГ-03/26
"
2
S
?
?
7
5
Thick dense fabric of a ribbon (belt?) burgundy color. Poorly preserved. Dense flooring. Two edges
MG-03/32
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,7 - 0,8
S
11 - 12
11
Thick tobacco-colored fabric. Cloth without flooring
MG-03/38
"
2
Z
1
Z
5 - 6
6 - 7
Dense thick cloth belt. Flooring on both sides. Edges (?)
MG-03/39
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
8
8
Several fragments of red-brown cloth. Decking on one side (possibly due to long-term use)
MG-03/42
Twill 2/2
0,5 - 0,8
Z
1
Z
11
10
Thick dense fabric of a belt of light brown color. Error in interweaving -unclear translation of the warp threads
MG-03/44
Plain linen
0,7 - 0,8
S
1
S
11
9
Thick dense canvas of dark brown color, with flooring. Broadcloth (?). Flannel (?)
MG-03/49
"
1
Z
1
Z
5
7
Thick webbing cloth (belt?) made of dark brown natural color fabric. Well preserved. There is a light flooring, the threads are poorly visible
MG-03/54
Twill 2/2
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,7 - 0,8
Z
10
9
Dense uniform fabric of brown-brown color, worn out, with losses
page 118
Continuation of the table
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
MG-03/63
Plain linen
0,5
Z
0,5 - 1
Z of double S-twist
9 - 10
12 - 14
Thick striped fabric of the belt. Well preserved, but worn out. There is a flooring, on one side it is denser. Cloth with a complex structure
MG-03/64
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,7 - 0,8
S
8
9
The fabric is blue-brown in color, quite thin and dense
MG-03/68
"
0,5
S
0,8
S
11 - 12
10 - 12
The fabric is gray-green in color. Weaving mistake - "double weft"
MG-03/71
"
0,5 - 1
S
1
S
7 - 8
8
The dense fabric of the belt is blackish-brown in color, worn out. Flannel (?)
MG-03/75
"
1
S
0,8 - 1,2
S(?)
9
7 - 8
Thick cloth belt (?) dark color. The narrow end of the belt widens towards the middle. Flannel (?)
MG-03/76
"
1
S
0,5 - 1
S
8 - 9
7 - 8
A thick cloth belt or ribbon cut from a blackish-brown fabric. Flannel (?)
MG-03/77
"
0,7 - 0,8
S
0,9
S
9
7
The fabric is blue-black in color, with a light floor covering that has been worn down in places during use. Broadcloth (?). Flannel (?)
MG-03/80
Twill 2/2
1
Z
1
Z
6 - 7
4 - 5
Thick, thick fabric
MG-03/84
"
0,5
Z
0,7
S
11 - 12
11 - 12
A thin, dense fabric with a uniform thread tension. The color is brown (with a green tinge). Cloth without flooring
MG-03/91
"
0.7 - 0.8 (up to 1)
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
11
8
Thick fabric with clearly visible diagonal stripes of brown-brown color
MG-03/92
Plain linen
0,4 - 0,6
Z
0,6
S
13
10 - 11
Dense thin fabric of good quality, poor preservation. The flooring is preserved on one side and in the seams. Cloth (?)
MG-03/93
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,7 - 1
Z
10
6 - 7
Thick, coarse fabric of dark tobacco color, without flooring
MG-03/94
Twill 2/2
0.9-1 (up to 1.1)
Z
0.9-1 (up to 1.2)
Z
9
7
Dense fabric of light brown-brown color. Warp and weft threads are the same
MG-03/97
Plain linen
0,7 - 0,9
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
10 - 12
6
The fabric is gray-brown in color. There is a weaving error - a double warp thread obtained by warping the thread
MG-03/99
"
0,5 - 1
Z
1 - 1,5
S
6
4
Thick dense fabric of a belt of greenish-brown color. Lightweight flooring. There is an edge on one side of the belt. Broadcloth
MG-03/101
"
0,5 - 0,6
Z
0,6
S
12
10
Thick fabric of very good quality, blue-brown color. Decking on one side. Broadcloth
MG-03/108
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,8 - 0,9
Z
11
8 - 9
The fabric is green-brown in color. On one side there is a medium density decking
MG-03/111
"
0,7
S
0,9
S
10
11
The fabric is brown in color. On one side of the deck. Flannel (?)
MG-03/114
"
0,8
S
0,9 - 1
S
14
8 - 9
The fabric is gray-black in color. Decking on one side. Flannel (?)
MG-03/115
"
0,5 - 0,9
Z
0,5 - 0,9
Z
11 - 12
10 - 11
Thick tobacco-colored fabric
MG-03/117
"
0,8 - 0,9
Z
0,8 - 1,1
S
9
8
Green-brown fabric with a fairly uniform thread tension
MG-03/124
Twill 2/2
0,8 - 1
Z
0,8 - 1
Z
10
10
Thick fabric. Top is light brown, inside is dark brown. Warp and weft threads are the same
MG-03/125
Plain linen
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5 - 1
S
6
8
Thin rare fabric with an open surface
MG-03/128, 176
"
1
Z
2,5 - 3
S
12
3
Two narrow pieces of dense fabric (belts?) dark brown color with longitudinal stripes. Well preserved. Decking on one side. Basic reps
MG-03/134
Twill 2/2
2
Z
1
Z
9
7
Thick dense fabric of a belt of light brown color. Well preserved
page 119
Continuation of the table
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
MG-03/136
Twill 2/2
0,8 - 0,9
Z
1
Z
9
8
Light brown thick fabric
MG-03/145
Plain linen
0,5
Z
1 - 1,2
S
12
6
The fabric is gray-brown in color. Insole
MG-03/146
"
0,5 - 0,6
Z
0.6 - 0.8 (up to 1.2)
Z
11
7 - 8
Fabric of brown-green color, with losses
MG-03/149
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
14
6
The fabric is brown-green in color. In some places there is flooring, tumbled fabric. Two edges. Belt
MG-03/156
"
2 - 2,3
Z
2 - 2,5
Z
4 - 6
2,5 - 3
A thick, rough, rigid canvas with two edges (footcloths?). Weaving errors - the weft overlaps three warp threads over several rows, then the structure is restored
MG-03/157
Twill 2/2
0,8 - 1
Z
0.7-1 (up to 1.2)
Z of a weaker twist
9 - 10
8
Uniform fabric of light brown color with a dark shade
MG-03/160
"
0,8 - 1
Z
0,8 - 1
Z
11
10
Very worn loose fabric of dark brown color
MG-03/161
Plain linen
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5 - 1
Z
10 - 11
8
The thin dense fabric of the belt is dark brown in color. Well preserved
MG-03/163
"
0,5 - 1
Z
1 - 1,5
Z
10
7
The thin, loose fabric of the belt is dark brown in color, with losses
MG-03/168
"
0,8 - 1
S
0,9 - 1,1
S
8
7
Dense fabric of blue-black color
MG-03/174
Twill 2/2
0,8 - 1,1
Z
0,9 - 1,2
Z
10
8
The fabric is brown-brown in color, worn out. The structure is uniform. Weaving error - the weft overlaps one or three warp threads at a time
MG-03/175
Plain linen
1
S
1
Z
8
6
Thick cloth woven belt patch
MG-03/182
"
1
Z
0,5 - 0,8
S
7 - 8
10
Thin woolen cloth belt. Poorly preserved. The texture is uniform
MG-03/187, 188
Twill 2/2
0,8 - 1
Z
1
Z
10
9
Thick fabric with a clearly visible diagonal stripe of brown-brown color
MG-03/189
"
0,8 - 1
Z
0,8 - 1
Z
9
8
The same thing
MG-03/191
Twill 2/1
0,7 - 1
Z
0,7 - 1
Z
10
7
Thick fabric with a clearly visible diagonal stripe
MG-03/192
Plain linen
0,7
Z
0,7
S
7
10
The fabric is very poorly preserved
MG-03/193
"
2 - 3
S
2
S
7
5
Loose fabric of the belt. There are no edges. The security is good
MG-03/194
"
0,6
Z
0,7 - 0,8
S
10
9
The fabric is black and green in color. Sometimes light flooring. Broadcloth
MG-03/197
"
0,8 - 1
S
0,8 - 1,1
S
8
8
The fabric is black and brown in color, with an open surface
MG-03/198
"
0,8
S
0,7 - 1,1
S
9 - 10
7
Thick coarse fabric in black and gray color
MG-03/199
Twill 2/2
0,9 - 1
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
10
9
Soft loose fabric of brown-brown color
МГ-03/202
Plain linen
0,7
Z
0,8
S
8
5
Loose fabric of brown-green color, with losses. Both sides are covered with decking
МГ-03/204
"
0,6 - 0,8
S
0,8 - 0,9
S
10
6
The fabric is green-brown in color. Flooring on one side on the surface, on both sides - in the seams. Flannel
МГ-03/205
"
1 - 2
Z
1 - 2
S
8
7
Thick cloth of red color
МГ-03/212
"
0,8 - 0,9
S
0,8 - 0,9
S
7
7
The fabric is gray-green in color. Light decking on one side. Flannel (?)
МГ-03/213
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
10
6
Loose fabric of blue-brown color, with an open surface. Poor security
page 120
Continuation of the table
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
МГ-03/215
Twill 2/2
0,9 - 1
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
7 - 8
7
Thin loose fabric of light brown color. Weaving error - the weft in every fourth row overlaps four warp threads
МГ-03/216
Plain linen
0,5 - 0,9
S
0,5 - 0,9
S
9
7
The black and green fabric is poorly preserved. Lightweight decking on one side
MG-03/217
"
0,5 - 0,7
Z
0,7 - 0,9
S
9 - 10 (?)
6(?)
Coarse thick fabric of gray-green color. Poor security
МГ-03/218
"
0,8 - 0,9
S
0,8 - 1
S
10
8
Grey-green fabric without flooring
MG-03/219
"
0,8
S
0,9
S
7
6
Dense thick fabric of blue-black color. Dense flooring on both sides. Flannel (?)
МГ-03/222
"
0,4 - 0,6
Z
0,5 - 0,9
S
14
14 - 16
Thin fabric of dark tobacco color, good quality, with a uniform tension of threads
MG-03/229
Twill 2/2
0.8 - 0.9 (up to 1)
Z
0,8 - 1
Z
9
9
Thick dense fabric with a uniform texture
МГ-03/230
"
0,5
Z
0,5 - 0,8
Z
11
9
The thin dense fabric of the belt is light brown in color. Well preserved
MG-03/233
Plain linen
0,6
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
13
9
Rather dense fabric of red-brown color
MG-03/234
"
0,6
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
13
9
The same thing
МГ-03/235
"
1 - 2
Z
1
Z
6
7 - 8
Dense thick cloth belt. Well preserved. On the canvas, you can see traces that look like punctures from a needle. Perhaps this product was used as a decorative item (it was longitudinally folded in half)
МГ-03/240
"
1-1.5 (up to 3)
Z
0,7 - 0,9
Single Z, double S
8 - 9
9
Thick dense fabric of the belt with a striped and mottled pattern. Two edges. On one side there is a light decking
МГ-03/241
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,7 - 0,9
Z
11
9
The fabric is green in color. Decking on one side
MG-03/242
"
0,6 - 0,7
Z
0,7
S
15
15
A thin, very dense fabric of dark brown color, with flooring, in some places it is lost. Broadcloth
MG-03/244
Twill 2/1
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5 - 1
Z
6
10
Thin dense canvas of greenish-brown color. Well preserved. The threads are uneven, the same in the base and weft
MG-03/249
Plain linen
0,8 - 0,9
S
0,9 - 1
S
8
8
Coarse, loose fabric of blue-black color
MG-03/250
"
0,8 - 1
S
0,8 - 1
S
7 - 8
5
Rough, thick fabric of blue-black color. Poor security
МГ-03/257
"
0,8 - 0,9
S
0,9 - 1,1
S
8
7
Thick, thick black-brown fabric. On one side, the flooring is of medium density. Weaving mistake-double weft. Flannel (?)
МГ-03/259
Twill 2/2
0,5 - 0,7
S
0,7 - 1
S
10
8
Thick dense fabric of dark blue color, almost black (unstable dyes)
МГ-03/267
Plain linen
0,5 - 0,6
Z
0,6
S
12
10
The fabric is gray-brown in color. Decking on one side. Cloth (?)
MG-03/268
"
0.7 - 0.8 (up to 1)
S
0.8 - 0.9 (up to 1.2)
S
9
8
Blue-black fabric
MG-03/270
"
0.7 - 0.8 (up to 1)
S
0.8 - 0.9 (up to 1.2)
S
9
8
The same thing
МГ-03/272
Polotnyanoe (reps)
2 - 3
Z
2 - 3
S
7
3
Thick dense fabric of a belt of dark brown color
МГ-03/277
Plain linen
0.7 - 0.9 (up to 1)
Z
0.9 (up to 1.2)
S
8
8
The fabric is blue-black in color, heavily soiled
page 121
Continuation of the table
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
MG-03/278
Twill 2/2
0,7 - 0,9
Z
0.7 - 1.0 (up to 1.1)
Z
10
9
The fabric is brown-red in color. Error in the weave - the weft covers four warp threads every three rows
МГ-03/281
"
0,8 - 1
Z
0,8 - 1
Z
10
9
Dense fabric of light brown-brown color. Warp and weft threads are almost identical
МГ-03/287
Plain linen
?
Z
?
?
?
?
Dense fabric with very dense flooring (on both sides), so thread parameters and density are not measured. Broadcloth
МГ-03/288
"
0,6 - 0,8
Z
0,6 - 1
S
14
5 - 6
Loose fabric of black and green color, with numerous losses and light flooring
МГ-03/289
Twill 2/2
0.8-1 (up to 1.1)
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
10
8
The fabric is dark brown in color. Non-standard edges, the weft overlaps with four or six warp threads
МГ-03/292
Twill 2/1
0,8 - 0,9
Z
0.8-1 (up to 1.3)
Z
6 - 7
10
Light brown fabric with a raised surface
МГ-03/293
Plain linen
0,8
Z
0,8 - 0,9
Z
9 - 10
8
Brown-blue fabric of poor preservation
MG-03/294
"
0,8 - 0,9
S
0,9
S
9
7
The fabric is brown-red in color. Lightweight flooring. Poor security
МГ-03/295
"
0,8 - 1
S
0,9 - 1,1
S
9
7
Red-brown fabric
MG-03/300
"
0,7
S
0,8
S
10
8
The fabric is green-brown in color. Medium density flooring on both sides. Flannel (?)
MG-03/301
"
0,7
S
0,8
S
10
8
The same thing
MG-03/306
"
2
S
1
Z
7
5 - 6
Dense thick cloth belt, weaving is well preserved. On both sides of the edge
MG-03/309
Twill
1
Z
1
Z
9
7 - 8
Thick dense fabric of a belt of light brown color
MG-03/312
Twill 2/2
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5 - 1
Z
10
8 - 9
Uniform fabric with loss, heavily soiled, light brown color
MG-03/316
"
1 - 2
Z
1
Z
5 - 6
7
Thick, thick fabric
MG-03/320
Plain linen
0,9 - 1
S
1 - 1,1
S
9
8
Dense thick fabric with dense flooring on one side. Flannel (?)
МГ-03/322
"
0,5 - 1
Z
0,5 - 1,8
S
9 - 10
7 - 8
The thin fabric of the belt is light brown in color. The surface is ribbed
MG-03/324
"
0,3 - 0,5
Z
0,4
S
13 - 14
14 - 15
Thick cloth of red color
МГ-03/325
"
0,6
Z
0,8
S
16
16
Thick fabric of good quality. The color is red-brown. Factory-made fine cloth
МГ-03/328
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
11
9
The fabric is brown-blue in color, dirty
MG-03/329
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,8 - 0,9
S
9
10
Fabric of brown-green color, poor preservation
MG-03/331
"
0,7 - 0,8
S
0,8
S
6
6 - 7
The fabric is black (with a green tint). Lightweight flooring. Flannel (?)
MG-03/332
"
0,7 - 0,8
S
0,8
S
6
6 - 7
The same thing
MG-03/333
Twill 2/2
1
Z
1 - 2
Z
12
10
Thick dense fabric of a belt of dark brown color. Weft threads are uneven
MG-03/334
Plain linen
0,6
S
0,6 - 0,7
S
10
9
Dense thin fabric of marsh color
MG-03/335
"
0,6 - 0,7
S
0,7 - 0,8
S
10 - 11
8 - 9
Dense thick fabric of green-brown color
MG-03/338
"
1
S
0,5 - 1
S
11
10
A thin dense canvas of dark greenish-brown color. Poorly preserved
MG-03/339
"
0,7 - 0,8
Z
0,7 - 0,8
S
8
7
Blue-black fabric
MG-03/340
"
0,8 - 0,9
Z
0,8 - 1
S
8
7
The same thing
page 122
End of the table
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
MG-03/347
Plain linen
0,8
Z
0,9
S
9
6
Marsh-colored cloth in the shape of a strip with a knot at the end, very dirty
MG-03/348
"
0,6 - 0,9
S
0,8 - 1
S
8
6
Loose fabric of blue-black color
MG-03/349
"
0,7 - 0,9
S
0,8 - 1
S
8
5
Blue-black fabric
MG-03/351
Twill 2/1
1
Z
1 - 1,2
Z
8
8
Dense fabric of brown-brown color
MG-03/353
Plain linen
0,7
Z
0,7
S
10 - 11
13
The fabric has a dense flooring on one side, on the other it is preserved in the seams. Cloth of high quality, brown-green color
MG-03/355
"
0,7
Z
0,7
S
10 - 11
13
The same thing
MG-03/356
"
0,7
Z
0,7
S
10 - 11
13
The same, but brownish-brown in color
MG-03/358
"
0,3 - 0,5
Z
0,3 - 0,5
S
10
8
Thick cloth, worn on the front side
MG-03/359
"
1
S(?)
1
S
3 - 4
5
Thick dense fabric of a belt (?) of blue-green color. Poorly preserved
MG-03/360
"
0,7
Z
7
S
10 - 11
12 - 13
Dense, high-quality handmade fabric. The color is dark brown. The flooring was on both sides, with one preserved only in the seams
MG-03/361
"
0,7
Z
0,7
S
10 - 11
13
The fabric has a dense flooring on one side, on the other it is preserved in the seams. Cloth of good quality, brown-brown color
MG-03/363
"
0,7
Z
0,7
S
10 - 11
13
The fabric has a dense flooring on one side. Cloth of good quality, brown-green color
MG-03/367
"
0,5 - 1
Z
1
S
12
10
Thin dense fabric of a belt of burgundy color. Lightweight flooring. Cloth without edges
МГ-03/371
Twill 2/2
1 - 1,5
Z
1
Z
11
10
Thick, dense fabric of light brown color, folded in half in the form of a belt
MG-03/384
Plain linen
0,7
S
0,8
Z
8 - 10
6
Tobacco-colored fabric
MG-03/387
"
0,5 - 0,8
Z
0,6 - 1
S
10
5
The fabric is brown with a green tint
MG-03/388
"
0,5 - 0,8
Z
0,6 - 1
S
10
5
The same thing
MG-03/395
"
0,7
Z
0,7 - 0,9
S
9(?)
11 (?)
Rather dense thin fabric of brown-green color
MG-03/397
"
0,5 - 0,6
S
0,7 - 0,8
S
10
8
Black fabric
MG-03/399
"
1
Z
2
Z
6 - 7
6
Thick cloth belt. On one side there is a light floor covering. There are no edges
MG-03/401
Twill 2/2
0,9 - 1
Z
0,9 - 1
Z
9
8
Thick fabric of light brown color with dark spots. Warp and weft threads are the same
MG-03/402
Plain linen
0,7 - 0,8
S
0,8 - 0,9
S
10
8
The fabric is blue-black in color. Medium density flooring on both sides. Flannel (?)
MG-03/407
"
0,7
Z
0,7
S
9
9
Brown-green fabric with uniform thread tension. On one side there is a dense flooring. Broadcloth
МГ-03/2335
"
1.5 (double)
Single S-turns, double Z-turns
0,7 - 0,8
S
6
8
A total of 33 threads, in the base alternate dark and light. There are no edges
* All fabrics are made of wool, with the exception of sample M-03/182, where the base is wool, the duck is vegetable fiber.
page 123
The study used the generally accepted classification of textiles by raw materials (vegetable, wool). Within the selected groups, the material was divided according to the method of interweaving-plain, twill (there are no other options for interweaving), then-according to the surface texture (open, closed flooring).
If there were edges or weaving errors in the sample, special attention was paid to them, as they are of great importance for the reconstruction of devices on which textiles were made.
In the absence of an edge in the fabric of fabrics dating back to the time after the XIII-XIV centuries, as a rule, the basis is considered to be thinner and steeply twisted threads, while the weft is considered to be thicker and less steeply twisted (Nakhlik, 1963). These parameters are also accepted in our study.
The technological characteristics identified during the study of textile samples allow us to conduct a comparative analysis of the material in both diachronic and synchronous aspects.
Plain weave fabrics
The characteristics of textiles with a plain weave structure can be judged based on the study of 82 fragments. All considered samples of this type of fabric are wool. According to their texture, they are divided into two subgroups: those with an open surface and those with a closed surface (i.e., those with flooring on one or both sides).
Plain weave fabrics with an open surface are represented by 35 samples. The safety of fragments varies, as does the degree of contamination. The color scheme presented in textile materials is extensive, the main colors are brown, black, blue, green and red (Fig. 1,2).
These fabrics can be divided into three groups depending on the twist of the warp and weft threads.
Group I-threads of the same Z - twist (Z/Z) and, as a rule, of medium fineness: from 0.6-0.8 to 1 mm (the main ones are slightly thinner than the weft ones). Often, the density of one thread structure significantly exceeds the density of the other.
Group II-multidirectionally twisted threads (Z/S). Based on (?) their fineness is from 0.5 to 0.8 - 1 mm, in duck (?) - from 0.7 to 0.8 - 1 mm. This group includes fabrics with uniform and uneven densities.
Depending on the size of the gaps between the threads in the warp and weft, dense fabrics and rarer ones are distinguished.
Group III-threads of the same S-twist (S/S). In the base (?), they have a fineness from 0.6 to 0.8 mm, in the duck (?) - from 0.7 to 0.8 - 0.9 mm. Often the base and weft are almost identical. The density of the fabric is directly dependent on the fineness of the threads. Average values: 10 threads per 1 cm for one structure, 9 threads per 1 cm for another.
Plain weave fabrics with a closed surface are represented by 47 samples that have flooring either only on one side or on both sides (Fig. 3-5). It can be solid on both sides or in places. Often, the density of the flooring (light, medium density, very dense) and the nature of its location on the surface (solid or in places) do not give a complete picture of its origin. It can be assumed that in some cases, the flooring
Fig. 1. Fragment of a thin, rare plain weave fabric (model MG-03/125).
2. Fragment of a rare plain weave fabric (model MG-03/15).
page 124
Fig. 3. Fragment of a fine strong cloth fabric of factory manufacture (model MG-03/358).
Fig. 4. Fragment of a fine cloth fabric (worn from the front side) of factory manufacture (model MG-03/324).
Fig. 5. Fragment of factory-made red cloth fabric (model MG-03/205).
page 125
small and medium density only on one side of the plain weave fabric is associated with long-term use (wear) of the textile product (as a rule, it appears from the wrong side). Initially, the dense flooring characteristic of a certain type of textile (broadcloth, wool flannel, wool bike) could be lost during prolonged wear. In this case, it is stored in the seams.
Plain weave fabrics with flooring on the surface are divided in the direction of twisting the warp and weft threads into two groups.
Group I - multidirectionally twisted threads (Z/S). The peculiarity of this textile is its high density: on the base - from 9 to 16 threads per 1 cm, on the weft-from 9 to 14. Base fineness 0.5 - 0.8 mm, duck - from 0.6 to 1 mm.
Group II-threads of the same S-twist (S/S). According to the density of the fabric, there are two subgroups::
1) with approximately the same density on the base (from 6 to 10 threads per 1 cm) and weft (from 7 to 11) with a tint of the main threads of 0.5 - 0.8 mm, weft-0.7-1 mm;
2) with a less uniform density: on the base-from 10 to 14 threads per 1 cm, on the weft-from 6 to 8. The fineness of the main threads is 0.8 - 0.9 mm, weft threads-0.9-1 mm.
Group II specimens usually have flooring on one side.
Based on the technological characteristics, it can be assumed that fabrics with an open surface, uniform density, multidirectionally twisted threads (Z/S) and fabrics with flooring having threads of the same twist are cloth, and samples with a closed surface belonging to the 1st subgroup of group II are flannel or bike. Apparently, these fabrics were made on a horizontal loom with pedals and a developed remizny device, as evidenced by the following signs: uniform thread tension, uniform density on the base and weft, "flat" edges, weaving errors characteristic of devices of this type ("double weft").
Analogs primarily of cloth fabrics are found in materials from burial grounds of the 17th century in the Tomsk-Narym Ob region (Bederevsky Bor, Migalka, Lukyanovsky) [Glushkova, 2002, Tables 16-18], as well as in earlier complexes: from the Tiskin burial ground of the 14th-early 15th centuries [Ibid., Table 12] and monuments of the XIV-XVI centuries in the Surgut Ob region [Ibid., Table 24].
Twill weave fabrics
23 samples of twill woven fabrics (a total of 123 copies) were specially studied. Typical fragments were selected that reflect the general characteristics of textiles of this type presented in the collection (Figs. 6-8). Samples of twill fabrics mostly have a light or dark brown color, which appears as a result of contamination during prolonged exposure to the ground.
Organoleptic methods have established that in all the cases considered, the raw material is wool.
It is not always possible to identify warp and weft threads in the fabric. They have the same direction of rotation (Z) and approximately the same value (the number of turns in the thread per 1 cm). The fineness ranges from 0.7-0.8 to 1 mm, and the threads of one structure (presumably weft) are usually thinner than the other.
The density of the fabric is quite uniform and directly depends on the tone of the warp and weft (when using thick threads, the density is lower, and vice versa). As for the structure, in the collection
Fig. 6. Fragment of thick dense twill weave fabric (model MG-03/259).
page 126
twill 2/2 (double-sided) prevails and there are significantly fewer samples of twill 2/1.
As a rule, twill fabrics have an open surface.
Adaptations for the manufacture of such textiles are reconstructed based on weaving errors, the nature of the edges, and the texture of the canvas. The following weaving errors were detected:
1) an error when warping the warp threads on the machine, as a result of which the weft overlaps four warp threads (and not two, as it should be) every three rows;
2) an indistinct transfer of warp threads when changing the loom-the weft in some cases overlaps one or three warp threads (it should overlap two) - evidence of an imperfect remizny device.
The edges shown in the samples can be described as "flat" - they have the same appearance as the rest of the canvas, but they are more dense. Edges of this type are a sign of fabric manufacturing on a horizontal machine (Nakhlik, 1963). With such a machine, as a rule, the use of a bird is correlated. Its use can be indicated by standard density indicators for the base (10 threads per 1 cm) in the vast majority of cases. Similar indicators are typical for many samples of plain weave fabrics.
As a preliminary hypothesis, it can be assumed that twill fabrics from the Mangazey collection were made on a horizontal loom with four or three threads and pedals. However, it is impossible to completely exclude the option of using a vertical loom with threads.
Twill wool fabrics from the Mangazei collection are a mass-produced mass-produced material. Their technological characteristics are described by stable features that are close in value for all samples. Especially stable are such features as the fineness of the warp and weft, the ratio of their twist, twist values, density, and the method of interweaving threads. This is evidence of the same (uniform) technology of manufacturing textiles on the same type of devices.
The use of thick, rather unevenly spun threads, the presence of the above-described weaving errors indicate the artisanal (non-factory) manufacture of twill textiles. Perhaps it was home-made using simple standard fixtures.
The stable technology of manufacturing twill-weave textiles is correlated with the all-Siberian tradition that has existed here since the early Iron Age.
7. Fragment of thick dense twill fabric (twill 2/2) (model MG-03/316).
Fig. 8. Fragment of dense thick twill weave fabric (model MG-03/80).
page 127
centuries (Aldygan burial ground in the Tomsk-Narym Ob region) to the beginning of the XIX century (monuments of the Tomsk-Narym Ob region, Chulym) [Ibid.]. This is what determines the similarity of textile materials from Mangazeya with the fabrics of Western Siberia of the IX-early XIX centuries. The traditional technology of manufacturing twill-woven textiles is also known from publications of excavations in Novgorod (XII-XVI centuries) [Nakhlik, 1963], Finno-Ugric burial grounds in the Urals [Efimova, 1966], and other monuments of European Russia.
Woven belts, webbing, fabric patches
37 samples were examined. Among them, fragments of hand-made woven belts (7 copies), fabric patches (19) and ribbons/girdles, the width of which is less than 3 cm (11 copies), are highlighted.
Woven belts - thick, dense or on leather (birch bark) based on-described in the ethnographic literature. N. V. Lukina notes that woven belts were very well known among the Khants, who wove them themselves at the beginning of the XX century, but this tradition was interrupted with the import of finished products [1985, p. 198]. The author gives a description of one such belt: it is woven from red and dark blue wool, the ends are wrapped with wool threads and strips of cloth embroidered with beads are attached to them. N. V. Lukina also points out that leather belts were also worn, which were often covered with cloth [Ibid., p. 50], and mentions fabrics-stripes. The belts were sewn with longitudinal strips or squares of fabric, which were decorated with beads, sometimes with buttons-plaques (hence the holes on the fabric). Over time, they switched from partial covering of belts with fabric to full, and then they began to be made without a leather base at all, from cloth alone (western Khanty, Mansi) [Ibid., p. 200]. Woven belts are also mentioned by E. G. Fedorova [2000, p. 144] and N. F. Prytkov [1953, p. 159, 195]. Woven belts made of multicolored wool were widely distributed among the northern Khanty [Ibid., p. 195].
An important characteristic of woven belts is strength. Therefore, thick threads were used for their manufacture, sometimes double. The strength of the fabric was also enhanced by flooring on one or both sides of the canvas.
The belts represented by the studied fragments are made of wool, which is probably due to the properties of this material (strength, softness, ease of coloring, etc.), its availability, and possibly the special importance of this raw material. The considered samples are characterized by a brown color (from light to dark brown tones). Siberian peoples mainly obtained it by decocting larch bark (which gives a light brown color) or bird cherry (dark brown) (Shatilov, 2000, p. 92).
The presence of losses and holes located longitudinally in the middle of the belts ' fabric indicates that buttons or, possibly, metal plaques were sewn on them. Many belts are badly worn, this is indicated by breaks in the canvas, worn flooring on one side, rolled threads, etc. However, the overall condition of the fragments allows for their technological, material science, and structural analysis.
Technological characteristics of hand-made woven belts (Fig. 9, 10). A common technique for increasing the strength of the web is the use of double warp threads, most often S-twists, consisting of two single Z-or S-twists (Z2S and S2S, respectively). The weft is thinner, the threads are both Z-and S-twisted. Apparently, in some cases, the duck used yarn of vegetable origin, which is stored in the ground worse than wool. Because of this, the web breaks up into individual warp threads or groups of them, which makes it impossible or difficult to conduct a technological analysis of the weft.
The average fineness of the main threads is 1 - 2 mm, weft threads - 1 - 1.5 mm. The density of the fabric on the base is from 3 to 10 threads per 1 cm, on the weft - from 3 to 8-9.The most common is plain weave. In some cases, the surface of the product has a flooring formed by the entanglement of warp and weft fibers.
A technological feature of woven belts is the use of multidirectionally twisted warp and weft threads. Some fragments have a rippled pattern or longitudinal stripes (Figs. 9, 10). In samples with a speckled pattern, the base of the thread is only one color, and the weft is two-color (light and dark yarn). Alternating weft threads of different colors for two to four rows with a single-color base creates a cross-striped pattern. In fragments of the canvas with longitudinal stripes, the threads are based on two colors, and the weft is one-color. Such hand-made belts in appearance resemble longitudinally cut pieces of the above-described plain weave fabric with an open surface. This is a kind of imitation. Apparently, colored threads were used to make belts, and finished products were not painted.
As A. A. Popov notes, the Khanty and Mansi regions had only two methods of producing belts: manual and byrd (1955, p. 133). This is confirmed by the data of W. Sirelius [1905]. All the studied fragments of woven belts have a plain weave and, most likely, were made with the help of bird. It was a vertical rectangular board with narrow slits in the entire length and circle-
page 128
Fig. 9. Fragment of a thick woven belt of plain weave with an open surface (without flooring) of manual manufacture (model MG-03/14).
Fig. 10. Fragment of a thick woven striped belt of hand-woven plain weave (model MG-03/306).
Fig. 11. Fragment of thick dense fabric of plain weave (patch on the belt) (model MG-03/2335).
holes in the spaces between them along the transverse axis of the board. Some warp threads were passed through slits, others through holes. When weaving, the pharynx was moved by lifting and lowering the bird (Popov, 1955, p. 134). This species of bird bears a resemblance to the Eastern Slavonic bird, which was described by N. I. Lebedev [1956, p. 459]. She, unlike A. A. Popov, refers this method of making belts not to weaving, but to primitive fabric, since there are two signs here: 1) division of threads into two groups - the base and the weft; 2) mechanical movement of the throat.
Technological characteristics of woven ribbons/girdles. All studied samples are made from wool raw materials. The weft threads of one fragment, apparently, were of plant origin and therefore did not survive. These products differ in the thickness of the canvas and the width (2-3 cm). For them, more than for woven belts, the use of double warp threads is characteristic, most often Z-twist (Z/S). The weft is more slender, mostly S-twists.
The average tint of the base in woven ribbons/girdles is 2 mm, the weft is 1-2 mm. The density on the base is from 5 to 8 threads per 1 cm, on the weft - from 4 to 10. The interweaving of all fragments is plain. In cases when the main threads are thick, and the weft threads are thin, the density of one structure (base/weft) exceeds the density of the other by 2 to 3 times, as a result, the canvas has a reps weave of threads (main reps/weft reps). Most woven webbing has flooring.
A technological feature of this type of product is the use of multidirectionally twisted warp and weft threads. The canvas is plain, without a pattern.
Woven webbing / girdles could be made either by hand or by bird using the same principle as woven belts.
Technological characteristics of fabrics-stripes on the belt (Fig. 11-13). They are represented by a thinner dense cloth made of wool raw materials. There are two types of weave: plain and twill. In most fragments, the weft threads are thicker than the main ones: the average fineness is 1 mm and 0.5 - 1 mm, respectively. The density of the fabric on the base is from 6 to 11 threads per 1 cm, on the weft - from 7 to 10. There are fabrics with both an open surface (see Fig. 12) and a closed surface (see Fig. 11, 13).
page 129
12. Fragment of a woven belt patch (striped fabric of plain weave) (model MG-03/176).
Fig. 13. Fragment of a woven patch on a factory-made plain weave belt (model MG-03/367).
14. Fragment of a knitted glove (model MG-03/400).
The flooring on some fragments suggests that it is cloth.
A technological feature of this type of product is the use, as a rule, of thin monophonic threads.
The technology of manufacturing these fabrics is associated with simple devices for weaving such as a vertical or primitive horizontal loom [Glushkova, 2002, p. 113, 114].
Mittens
Mittens are represented by samples of fabric products (usually twill weave, vegetable (?) and wool raw materials) and knitted (Fig. 14).
Knitted mittens (five whole pieces and fragments) have common characteristics: a knitted fabric made of double threads; the parts of the mittens covering the hand are usually tied more tightly and neatly than the "bell" starting from the wrist.
The raw material is wool. Double S-twist threads consist of single Z-twists (Z/S). The torsion of double threads is usually weak, and the torsion of single Z-twists in the opposite direction when twisting according to the S-twist scheme leads to a decrease in the initial value of the twist in these threads, the yarn turns out to be softer, looser and more voluminous.
On the surface of the knitted fabric stripes in the form of "herringbone". The web structure is formed by round interpenetrating loops. The stitch pitch is from 0.8 to 1 mm, in a sparse web - 1.5 mm.
page 130
Manufacturing technology-knitting with a single needle on the principle of thread engagement. Its scheme is presented in the work of A. Nahlik, who, in turn, uses the reconstruction of knitting by M. Hald based on materials from Scandinavia, where such a technique was known from the beginning of our era to the beginning of the XV century, and in some countries - to the present day (Nahlik, 1963).
Conclusions
In the collection of textile materials of Mangazeya at the beginning of the XVII century, complexes of presumably local and imported fabrics are distinguished. The former, most likely, include twill and plain weave fabrics with an open surface, low density and unevenly spun threads. They could be made as part of home weaving on a horizontal loom, well known to the Russian population as early as the XIII - XIV centuries. Also local can be considered handmade belts, ribbons and knitted mittens.
Imported fabrics are probably of good quality, with evenly spun threads, uniform tension, high density, with or without flooring. They were produced according to the established technology in developed textile centers, primarily in Western and Eastern Europe. The presence of colored threads in the edge, which is found in samples from Mangazeya, also indicates that fabrics belong to certain European weaving centers (Nakhlik, 1963). Striped fabrics of good quality( cloth without flooring?), small longitudinally cut pieces of which were used in Mangazeya as stripes on belts, are known from materials of the XV century from Novgorod and attributed by A. Nakhlik as imported.
In Flanders, England, and Holland, developed textile centers were formed from the 13th - 14th centuries, where high-quality broadcloths, flannels, and other woolen fabrics were produced. However, the described imported fabrics are not of the highest quality. According to the classification of A. Nakhlik, they belong to the 4th and 3rd grades, which are characterized by a fabric density of no more than 14-16 threads per 1 cm with medium and thick threads. In the Mangazey collection, there are no textiles with a complex weave structure or high density indicators (more than 22 threads per 1 cm).
The conclusions reached are preliminary. To find out all the technological features of textiles, additional studies of raw materials, dyes, and a more thorough comparison with already published materials are required.
List of literature
Belov M. I., Ovsyannikov O. V., Starkov V. F. Mangazeya. - L.: Gidrometeoizdat, 1980. - Part 1: Mangazey sea course. - 164 p.
Belov M. I., Ovsyannikov O. V., Starkov V. F. Mangazeya. Moscow: Nauka Publ., 1981, Part 2: Material culture of Russian polar mariners and explorers of the XVI-XVII centuries, 148 p .
Bogomolov V. B. Fabrics of the XVII century of the Turkic population of the Tara river basin / / Ethnographic and archaeological complexes: problems of culture and society. Novosibirsk: Nauka Publ., 1996, vol. 1, pp. 112-116.
Vizgalov G. P. Russkoe posadskoe domostroenie na severo Zapadnoy Sibiri v XVII veke (po materialam novykh issledovaniy Mangazeya) [Russian posadskoe housing construction in the north of Western Siberia in the 17th century (based on the materials of new studies of Mangazeya)]. "Cultural heritage of the peoples of Western Siberia". Tobolsk, 2004, pp. 19-25.
Glushkova T. N. Sibirskie tekstil'nye materialy XVII v. [Siberian textile materials of the 17th century]. Omsk: Publishing House of the Omsk State University, 1995, pp. 124-129.
Glushkova T. N. Archaeological fabrics of Western Siberia. - Surgut: Publishing House Surgut, State Pedagogical Institute, 2002. - 206 p.
Efimova, L. V., Fabrics from Finno-Ugric burial grounds of the first millennium AD, KSIA, 1966, No. 107, pp. 127-134.
Lebedeva N. I. Pryadenie i tkachestvo vostochnykh slavyan [Spinning and weaving of the Eastern Slavs].
Lukina N. V. Formation of material culture of the Khanty (Eastern group). Tomsk: Publishing House of the Tomsk State University, 1985, 364 p.
Nakhlik A. Fabrics of Novgorod / / MIA. - 1963. - N 123. - pp. 228-253.
Parkhimovich S. G. Magicheskie stroitel'nye obryady v Mangazey [Magic construction rites in Mangazey]. Russkie: Materialy VII Sib. simp. "Cultural heritage of the peoples of Western Siberia". Tobolsk, 2004, pp. 47-53.
Popov A. A. Pryadenie i tkachestvo u narodov Sibiri v XIX i pervoi kvarti XX veka [Spinning and weaving among the peoples of Siberia in the XIX and first quarter of the XX century].
Prytkova N. F. Odezhda khantov [Clothing of the Khants]. Sb. MAE. - 1953. - Vol. 15. - pp. 123-233.
Sirelius U. T. Domashnye crafta ostyakov i vogulov: Per. s nem. [Home crafts of ostyaks and voguls: Translated from German]. - 1905. - Issue 15. - P. 1-40.
Fedorova E. G. Fishermen and hunters of the Ob basin: the Problem of formation of culture of the Khanty and Mansi. St. Petersburg: European House Publ., 2000, 367 p.
Shatilov M. B. Vakhovsky ostyaks: Ethnographic essays. Tyumen: Mandriki Publ., 2000, 288 p. (in Russian)
The article was submitted to the Editorial Board on 07.06.05.
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